Camper Itself $30k

Camper, Bed, Boxes $35k (ready to bolt onto 07-19 Tundra Double Cab)

I’m asking $70K for a turn key, dialed in, adventure ready combo.

This would cost over $115K to Duplicate

For serious inquires or questions, email is best:, the forums are hard for me to check and reply to on my phone, I’m rarely at a computer.

Thank you.

The Ultimate Go Anywhere In Comfort Exploration Rig

Please read entire ad carefully, I’ll explain why each mod was done, and what purpose it served.  Every single thing done to this truck/camper was done methodically for ultimate function.  I did not just bolt on some subpar Instagram trendy stuff that is less than ideal.  I’ve been doing this over 20 years.

 This has been a three year project, building and dialing in, the ultimate go anywhere camping/exploration rig. 

There are bigger trucks and campers, and there are smaller trucks and campers.  I chose the Tundra/Hawk combo believe I believe it’s big enough for two people to travel for extended times comfortable, and its small enough, to fit just about anywhere.

All the extensive legwork is done, all the extensive time has been invested, and all the money has been spent.

This is 100% dialed in and turnkey ready to travel wherever you so desire, and do it in maximum comfort.

If you’ve owned 4x4’s before and have driven extensively off-road, I welcome you to come drive this one and see what a difference having one 100% dialed in makes. 

Putting an 1800lb camper onto a truck isn’t as simple as just mounting it on the truck.  Spring rates have to be calculated, shocks need to be properly valved, and testing/adjustments needs to occur.

If you’ve followed any of my other builds in Toyota Trails Magazine over the years, you’ll know I don’t cut corners, or pinch pennies.  No expense was spared to do this right, and it took almost 3 years to get it perfect.

Why am I selling it?  Quite simple…  It’s done…  I enjoy the build process very much, and look forward to building something else.  As for what that will be?  Honestly…  I have no idea at this time.

2014 Tundra Double Cab 4x4 SR5
97k miles
Bought New (single owner, have clean title in hand)
(full modification list below):

2018 Four Wheel Camper Hawk Loaded Front Dinette
(full feature and modification list below):

Custom Built Utility Bed to maximize storage without having to enter camper.

2014 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4 SR5
97,xxx Miles (oil changed every 5k)
Factory Navigation System
Tow Package (130 amp alternator)
Bought new, single owner, clean title in hand.


  • Old Man Emu BP51 front bypass shocks with heavy springs.  I’ve run Old Man Emu on the last 5 trucks I’ve owned, and have not had one single issue with any of them ever.  Their durability is second to none.
  • SPC upper control arms.  Anytime you lift an IFS Toyota more than 2” you need to replace the upper control arms to get it to align into specs.  I went with SPC for the fact they use stock balljoints, which can easily be found at most part stores, and have excellent durability.  Several folks have asked me why I didn’t do a long travel setup.  Simple, there is no need to go fast in a truck/camper this heavy, it will stress all parts of the vehicle and camper, and the ride how it’s currently configured is amazing.  Long travel parts with heims and uniballs require a lot more maintenance as well.  If you break one on the trails, its’ unlikely you’ll find one at Napa or the like.
  • Total Chaos Spindle Gussets

REAR SUSPENSION (this was a lot of work to dial in with the camper):

  • Old Man Emu Dakar Heavy Duty Leaf Packs with grease able bushings and shackles
  • (2) Old Man Emu Dakar Add A Leafs
  • I had the Old Man Emu Dakars in before I got the camper.  After installing the camper, I tried 2 different sets of custom packs for the camper’s weight, and both were horrible.  One was way too stiff and provided very little articulation, one was way too soft, and sagged immediately after install.
  • After talking with many folks running similar setups, I ordered a new set of Dakar leaf packs, installed 2 Dakar add a leafs per side, and they handle the weight amazingly well and stabile.  They also flex well.
  • There are no shocks available off the shelf valved for an additional 1800lbs.  Folks seem to gravitate toward Kings, but their hesitation to do custom work, their turnaround time, and their after sale support leaves a lot to be desired.
  • I contacted ADS (Arizona Desert Shocks) and told them what I had and what I wanted to do.  They custom valved a set of their 2.5” Piggy Back Reservoir shocks and had them to me within a week.  The difference was immediately noticeable and more stable, and couldn’t be happier. 
  • I also installed a set of Firestone heavy duty airbags in the back for more stability while driving on twisty mountain roads, which I do a lot of.  They are installed with the Daystar cradles and do NOT limit off-road articulation.  They also helped leveling the truck/camper at camp spots.

Again, safety is huge with me.  I have a fused neck (C6/C7) and would have been dead if I didn’t have an airbag 5 years ago when I got in a car accident.

  • Although there’s tons of bumper manufactures out there, I waited 2 years for ARB to release their bumper for my truck, because ARB is the ONLY one that’s actually certified for airbag compatibility.  I mounted a Warn 12.5 Xeon S winch in the ARB bumper, and fitted it with the Factor 55 ultimate hook.
  • I installed the full skid plate system from RCI Off-road, and the entire undercarriage of the truck is protected from rocks.
  • Slee sliders were a no brainer, I’ve been a Slee Customer 10+ years, and they went on immediately after picking up the truck.  The driver’s side is very slightly bent, but still perfectly functional.


  • Perfect Switch ( 300amp dual rectifier isolator.  
  • I’ve run these in 5 different trucks over 15 years, and they are second to none, and found mainly in aircraft and military vehicles.  They’re also made locally here in San Diego.  It also has a push button connect feature to jump yourself from your house batteries without ever getting out of the truck.
  • Odyssey PC2150 Group 31 Starting Battery.  No description needed here, it’s the biggest/best you can get.
  • All truck battery/camper batteries/alternator wiring has been redone with 2awg Ancor Marine cable for maximum charging efficiency.
  • Truck alternator also charges camper batteries while driving.


  • The day I took delivery of the truck, I removed the rear seats, and made a platform mounted to the existing set holes
  • ARB 65 Fridge sits just behind the driver’s seat and can be easily access without the use of a slide of any kind.   This was done by design, for ease of use, and even the most expensive slides rattle.
  • ARB Dual Compressor mounted rear wall of the truck’s cab (inside to protect from elements).  There are air chucks are the front, rear, and center of the vehicle for easy filling.  I also have the ARB manifold installed if lockers are in the future.
  • The 46 gallon transferflow replacement tank was probably one of my favorite upgrades and provides 450 miles between fuel fill-ups, this has been a godsend of some of my more remote trips.
  • (2) Baja Designs LP9 Pro lights provide 22,000 lumens of madness to turn even the darkest nights into daytime, and they fit perfectly on the ARB Bumper
  • Kenwood 50 watt 2m/Ham radio (TM-V71A) is installed in the truck with the faceplate mounted clean on the dash.
  • (6) Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires (295/70-18) tires mounted on factory Toyota Steel wheels.  This is my second set of G2s and I absolutely them in all conditions, and they are silent on the freeway.  They are mounted on steel wheels for durability, and availability.  Steel wheels are used throughout the world instead of alloy for the reputation of being indestructible.  The Nitto Terra Grappler G2 are currently the only all terrain tire with a 50k mile warranty!
  • 5.29 Nitro Gears installed by ProGear here in San Diego completely changed the feel and driveability of the truck/camper back to stock.


  • One thing I noticed most folks don’t do with their “builds” is brake upgrades.  They are adding gobs of weight, and still relying on the stock brakes for everything.  I upgraded all 4 rotors to the Australian DBA 4x4 Survival Slotted Rotors and their pads.  The performance was not only immediate, they now have over 20k on them, and still look new and have no signs of wear.  This is essential with larger trucks and campers.


  • 2018 Four Wheel Camper Hawk Front Dinette
  • Silver Spur Exterior and Interior
  • Furnace
  • 6 gallon hot water heater / outdoor shower
  • Flush mount sink and 2 burner stove
  • 20 gallon fresh water tank
  • 8ft Fiamma Hard Shell Awning with light
  • Rear Flood Lights
  • 85L Isotherm Fridge/Freezer
  • (2) Propane tanks
  • (2) Power Fantastic Roof Vents/Fans
  • 250ah battery bank using (2) 6v Centennials
  • Mechanical Camper Jacks
  • Rear Wall Steps
  • Yakima Tracks installed (by factory) on roof
  • Thermal Pack (never installed)
  • 275 Watts of Solar
  • Victron MPPT Controller


  • Between charging all my photography gear, my CPAP machine, the furnace, and the refrigerators, I use a lot of power.
  • Both camper batteries have been upgraded to huge Centennial CB6-250 6v so the camper now has 250ah of power for all my/your needs. 
  • 275 Watts of Solar (top quality NEWPOWA panels, one 175 and one 100) are on the roof of the camper, feeding into a Victron 100/30 MPPT charge controller with both the MPPT Control and Battery monitor gauges for easy access to see exactly what is going on, what’s being used, and what’s being charged.
  • I installed the Xantrex 2000 Pro-Sine (Pure Sine) inverter in the camper and wired it to a 110 outlet inside the camper, and a waterproof 110 outlet outside the camper. 
  • The Brophy folding steps have made entering and exiting the camper much more pleasant.
  • I installed footman loops on the floor of the camper to secure storage boxes while traveling.  They are installed out of the way, so toes will not be stubbed! 


Built by Ian of , the utility bed with the storage boxes, is easily my favorite and most functional part of this build.

Although the camper has ample storage, needed to go in and out of it to get anything, got old really fast.  We came up with this solution together, and he executed it perfectly!

Bed Features:

  • Designed to keep the camper at the same height as the stock bed (got it ¾” lower)
  • -Designed to allow full articulation of rear suspension (most off the shelf beds barely allow half)
  • -Designed to accommodate custom storage boxes
  • -Dual gas strut assist swing out tire carrier that securely holds (2) 35” spares
  • -Hard mounted camper to bed so no longer messing with the turnbuckles
  • -Powedercoated and Herculined for maximum protection
  • -Custom Waterproof/Weatherproof Aluminum boxes from
  • -Built in 2” receiver


STOCK Parts Included with sale:

  • -Pickup bed and tailgate with backup camera, no dents
  • -Original 26 gallon fuel tank
  • -Stock Tail lights
  • -Stock Leaf Springs
  • -Rear seats, never sat in
  • -Rear seat belts
  • -Stock 4:30 gear sets

SPARE (NEW never used) Parts included with sale: (bought these for arctic circle trip, in case)

  • Alternator
  • -Starter
  • -Tie rod end kit
  • -Front wheel/unit bearing assembly
  • -Serpentine belt
  • -(3) extra steel wheels

Known Camper Issues:

  • None.

Known Truck Issues:

Not “issues” persay, but:

-I haven’t come up with a good mudflap solution yet
-I’ve gone back and forth whether or not to add more boxes underneath the utility bed.  I don’t need any more storage, but it looks a little incomplete to me. 

-I figure I would leave this up to the buyer to decide how he/she wants to finish it.

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